Voted BEST BBQ in the TOP 100 Reader's Poll

Red Bones Not even a year old, Red Bones has certainly arrived on the Utah gastronomical scene. Using the Memphis-style method of barbecue (meats are hand rubbed with dry spices and the sauces are served on the side), Red Bones is more classic take-out diner than full-bore restaurant. Kid favorites include the pulled pork sandwich. Of special note are the side dishes served here, all of stellar quality — no guesswork for us, we like the Greek potatoes, though the Three-Bean chili is hard to beat. And don't overlook the cornbread. What's southern cookin' without cornbread?

2. Bubba's

3. Tony Roma

Dining
Redbones is Smokin'  by Ted Scheffler  Real Memphis-style barbecue right here in Zion.
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I’m not sure whether it was the Caddie with Maine license plates parked out back or the motorcycles in front that suggested that this rib joint was a far cry from Tony Roma’s.  More on vehicular diversity later—for now let’s just say Redbones, on 700 East, just North of I-80, is a new barbecue eatery in town that you’ll want to steer your chosen mode of transportation toward. I’ve long lamented the fact that, at least in my opinion, Bubba’s has been the only game in town when it comes to barbecue worth your bucks. But as much as I like Bubba’s, I’m always happy to see new barbecue spots open up—the more the merrier.  Still, I kept my expectations of Redbones low, assuming that I’d encounter the same sauce-laden and disappointing ribs, brisket and chicken that have characterized so many other barbecue joints that have come (and gone) before. But occasionally one stumbles upon pleasant surprises in life, like winning at Powerball, learning that Claudia Schiffer has dumped her magician beau, or discovering an authentic Memphis-style barbecue restaurant, like Redbones.  For those not versed in the partisan ways of barbecue, "Memphis" denotes not only the home and resting place of the King, but a style of cooking meats and fowl that merges southeastern barbecue styles with western. In Memphis you’ll find tender and pink barbecued and smoked meats that are served with sauces on the side. Unlike the barbecue of the Lone Star State, never would you encounter a Memphis rib or chicken leg slathered in a sweet, gooey, red barbecue sauce. Such is the case at Redbones, where three sauces are served, as they ought to be, on the side.  Not all the barbecue at Redbones is, strictly speaking, Memphisian. For years now I’ve been looking for a simple sandwich of South Carolina pulled pork accompanied by a traditional vinegar and pepper sauce—there are few dishes in life that would make me happier. Well, at Redbones they serve up the real deal. The pork is slow-smoked for about 14 hours, hand-pulled (never chopped, according to South Carolina barbecue aficionados), and served on a non-distinct (as it should be) white bun. You simply douse the pork with the pepper-vinegar nectar, and head straight for heaven.  While the pulled Carolina pork ($4.95) is far and away my favorite meal at Redbones, there are plenty of other barbecue choices that warrant your attention. The Dixie Chicken, for instance, is golden brown, tender and juicy after being slow-smoked over Redbones’ variety of fruit woods. In fact, it’s so flavorful I just skip the sauce.  Experimentalists might want to try Bill’s Big Combo ($11.95), a variety-pak of Memphis ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket that is as tender as you’ll ever encounter. The brisket is perfect for anyone who avoids barbecue because it’s so messy.  The New Orleans’s mainstay red beans and rice ($4.95) makes a nice lunch at Redbones, perhaps with a garden salad ($2.50) or cherry wood smoked chicken wings ($4.50), on the side. And speaking of sides, most meals at Redbones come with a slab of cornbread and a choice of two side dishes, which stray from the traditional standbys of fries, chips, or slaw. You might, for instance, opt for the fresh and crisp flavors of a Boston cucumber salad or the punch of Indian-spiced chick peas. I especially liked the Russian kidney bean salad, Greek oven-roasted potatoes and Persian carrots—a virtual United Nations of side dishes.  Vegetarians typically cringe at the thought of barbecue, but at Redbones you’re not left out. There’s a veggie special that includes cornbread and a double portion of any one side dish and regular portions of two more. And vegetarians will appreciate the Sugar House Express, which is Redbones’ three-bean vegetarian chili topped with chopped sweet onions and cheddar cheese ($5.95).  So you’re probably asking yourself, "How did these Tennesseeans wind up with a restaurant in Utah?" Well, the story is a bit more complicated than that. Remember the Cadillac? It turns out that Linda Whitmore and Ralph Smithers—the owners of Redbones—are in fact Yankees from Maine who followed their kids to Utah after they moved here to attend college.  Linda and Ralph’s boys, Bill and Brad, are involved in the family barbecue biz, even to the extent of designing and building Redbones, itself. Quite remarkable insofar as Redbones’ interior looks as though it was designed by a big-ticket architectural/design firm. The Redbones logo is inlayed, petroglyph-style, into the red-rock tiles, which distinguish this friendly and casual setting.  And by the way, the motorcycles parked outside are likely to be those of Bill, Brad, Linda and Ralph. You know, the family that bikes together.  So just how do a bunch of Yankees from Maine wind up cooking some of the best barbecue in the state? Beats me. But hell, with barbecue this good it wouldn’t matter to me if they were from Tierra del Fuego or Saturn. What matters is what’s cookin’ up in the kitchen, and at Redbones, the kitchen is smokin’!  Hear Ted’s "Mountain View Vittles" on Wednesdays at 105.7 FM—The Mountain

Redbones  Where 2207 So. 700 East 463-4800  When Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.  Who an eclectic mix of folks from the neighborhood, students and those searching out pulled pork  Prices sandwiches w/ slaw $4.95 main dishes w/ sides $4.95 to $14.95  Other beer license should be in place by the time you read this  Food Matters  While we’re on the subject of barbecue, the best book ever written on the fine art of smoking and grilling is "Smoke & Spice" by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison, who just happen to be two more Yankees (from Massachusetts).  The collector’s edition October issue of Gourmet is a treasure-trove of recipes, insights and reminiscences from the great restaurants of the world. But how is it that Utah’s fine restaurants were ignored, when Gourmet even listed top restaurants in St. Louis, Detroit, Portland and Aspen? Give me a break.  I recently had the pleasure of dining at Metropolitan, and I’ll say it again: The food there is as good as any I’ve had in New York, Los Angeles, or Portland. By the way, chef Matt Merges turned me on to a couple of sensational wines that you should order at Metropolitan, while the limited supply lasts: The Robert Ampeau et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Combettes 1983 was like buttah, and it’s tough to find nectar as delicious as the Turley Petit Syrah 1994 from Hayne Vineyards. Now that I think about it, maybe it’s better that Gourmet doesn’t know about some of Utah’s restaurant treasures—let’s just keep Log Haven, The Tree Room, Grappa and Metropolitan to ourselves.  Pick of the Week: With temperatures dropping, it’s time for homebrewers to get back in gear and start those fermenters a-bubblin’. The boys at The Beer Nut have put together an informative and fun newsletter to help you do just that: The Bierkieser. Be sure to pick one up at The Beer Nut or call them at 531-8182 to get on their mailing list.  E-mail me with food matters: tscheffler@slweekly.com.